Tea Across China: A Sip of Regional Habits and Preferences

China, the birthplace of tea, boasts a vibrant and diverse tea culture, with different regions developing unique preferences and customs over centuries. Let's take a journey across the country and explore the tea drinking habits of various areas.

The North (Yellow River Region): Green Tea Devotees

The northern regions along the Yellow River, including Shandong, Henan, and areas north of Shaanxi, have a deep seated love for green tea. They particularly favor teas with a strong, astringent taste (often described as "煞口" shà kǒu) and a lingering sweet aftertaste. In the past, when Tieguanyin was popular, many in this region used it as a substitute for green tea, leading to some still mistaking it for one. Due to the colder climate, tea cultivation is challenging, and early spring harvests are late. Red tea produced here often uses summer leaves, leading to potential misconceptions about its quality. Tea drinking in the north tends to be practical and straightforward, often involving simple cup brewing for a quick, thirst quenching experience.

The Elegant East (Yangtze River Delta): A Focus on Refinement

The central and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, encompassing provinces like Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Anhui, Jiangxi, Hunan, and Hubei, have a long and refined tea tradition. Far from the constraints of power, the elite in this region historically pursued a sophisticated lifestyle, with a particular emphasis on elegance in tea drinking (雅 yǎ). This includes seeking rare flavors, appreciating the stories behind the tea, mindfully savoring the process, and even documenting the experience. This region boasts a rich variety of historical and innovative teas, primarily red and green. Tea drinkers here prefer light, fresh flavors and pay close attention to the water quality and tea ware used. They appreciate the visual aesthetics and taste of green tea and also use high quality early spring harvests to produce red tea. The region's dedication to and study of green tea is widely acclaimed.

Jasmine Dreams (Sichuan, Chongqing & Tianjin, Hebei): The Scent of Nostalgia

In the north, particularly in the Tianjin and Hebei regions, as well as in Sichuan and Chongqing, jasmine tea (茉莉花茶 Mò lì huā chá) is incredibly popular and often referred to simply as "flower tea" (花茶 huā chá). It holds a significant place, especially in the hearts of the older generation, with a taste profile similar to "clear tea" (light colored tea). Introduced from Fujian to Beijing during the Qing Dynasty, its popularity soared alongside the fashion for jasmine snuff. Jasmine tea, with its fresh, intense, and sweet flavor (often likened to rock candy sweetness), is enjoyed by tea drinkers of all ages. Brewing is typically simple, often in a basic tea bowl or cup. While traditional Fuzhou jasmine tea remains beloved, the innovative "Snowflake in Green Pond" (碧潭飘雪 bì tán piāo xuě) has also gained popularity in recent years, offering a unique presentation of tea and flower. Ultimately, the focus is on the harmonious blend of tea and jasmine and that delightful sweet taste.

The Forgotten Gems (Guizhou & Guangxi): Hidden Treasures

Guizhou and Guangxi, despite historically producing excellent teas like Duyun Maojian (都匀毛尖 Dū yún Máo jiān), are often overlooked in the modern tea market. These mountainous, misty regions should ideally be prime tea growing areas, and they do produce a wide variety of teas, including green, red, white, dark, and oolong. While production is substantial and locals enjoy diverse teas, these regions often lack strong regional brand recognition, leading their teas to be marketed under other names. Transportation challenges have historically hindered brand development. However, these regions boast unique tea drinking customs among ethnic minorities, such as oil tea (油茶 yóuchá) enjoyed by the Gelao people, tea dishes, and tea banquets, as well as mixed tea drinks like "hitting oil tea" enjoyed by the Miao and Dong people.

The Sage of Tea (Fujian): A Legacy of Innovation

Fujian's profound influence on Chinese tea history over the past 400 years is undeniable, earning it the title of a "sage" in the tea world. It's the birthplace of Fuding and Zhenghe white tea, Wuyishan Lapsang Souchong (正山小种 Zhèng shān Xiǎo zǒng) red tea, and a plethora of oolong teas, including Wuyi rock oolong (武夷岩茶 Wǔ yí Yán chá), Anxi Tieguanyin (安溪铁观音 Ān xī Tiě Guān yīn), Zhangping Narcissus (漳平水仙 Zhāng píng Shuǐ xiān), Yongchun Buddha's Hand (永春佛手 Yǒng chūn Fó shǒu), Pinghe Baiya Qilan (平和白芽奇兰 Píng hé Bái yá Qí lán), and Zhao'an Baxian (诏安八仙 Zhào ān Bā xiān). Even Taiwanese oolong has deep roots in Fujian. Fujianese tea culture is distinct, with diverse preferences even within the province, but a shared deep love for good tea. Tea often replaces plain water in their diet. This strong tea culture has fostered high levels of tea appreciation and driven innovation in tea production, with Fujianese masters renowned for their expertise in roasting and withering.

Back to Basics (Guangdong): Tea as a Way of Life

Guangdong's love for tea seems even more deeply ingrained than in Fujian, exemplified by its vibrant morning tea (早茶 zǎo chá) culture, which makes tea accessible to everyone. The Cantonese believe in drinking tea whenever possible, even improvising brewing setups in unlikely places. Their approach to tea selection is practical, prioritizing personal taste over blindly pursuing expensive teas. They consume large quantities of tea with a high leaf to water ratio, often using the gongfu tea brewing method. All six major tea categories are enjoyed, along with herbal teas. For the Cantonese, the process of tea drinking is paramount, and they find comfort and relaxation even in everyday teas.

The Enigmatic Southwest (Yunnan): Ancient Flavors

Yunnan, the origin of the tea tree, often feels shrouded in mystery. However, the tea drinking habits of the average Yunnan resident are similar to others, often involving a gaiwan, fairness cup, and tasting cups. The primary tea choices are Pu-erh, Dian Hong (滇红 Diān Hóng), Dian Green (滇绿 Diān Lǜ), and other tea types made from Yunnan leaves. The perceived mystery largely stems from Yunnan's unique geographical environment and its ancient tea trees (though most commercially grown trees are cultivated varieties). Like other ethnic minority regions in the southwest, Yunnan retains some ancient tea drinking customs. Sun drying is a significant processing method. Yunnan tea drinkers appreciate the ancient, natural flavors of their teas and approach tea with reverence.

Borderlands: Where Tea is Essential

While the saying "no day without tea" became popular among tea lovers since the Song Dynasty, it perhaps more accurately describes the people living in the remote border regions. The long journey of tea to these areas, often leading to spoilage and the development of dark tea, forged a unique relationship with this beverage. For over a thousand years, tea has been used for trade and sustenance in regions like Inner Mongolia, Tibet, Xinjiang, Qinghai, and parts of Shaanxi and Gansu. Boiling tea and mixing it with other foods remains a common practice, providing both hydration and essential nutrients in harsh environments. While modern life has brought changes, these ancient tea customs are still valued and passed down through generations.

From the delicate rituals of the Yangtze Delta to the hearty brews of the borderlands, the diverse tea culture of China reflects the country's rich history, geography, and the enduring love for this remarkable beverage.